The Wallal Ghost –

Wallal means “sweet water”, a source of fresh water. It is located next to Eighty Mile Beach on the lands of the Nyangumarta people of Western Australia’s Kimberley region — looking out to the Indian Ocean and upwards to the starry skies of the southern hemisphere.

At the beginning of the 20th century, it had a telegraph station and a Nyangumarta population of about 100 people. The area became the focus of the world during the Wallal Expedition of 1922 –

In early September 1922, a group of astronomers sailed to an isolated beach in the Kimberley, set up camp behind a row of sand dunes, and soon made history. On 21 September they proved Albert Einstein’s Theory of Relativity. But for such a significant moment in science, surprisingly very few people know much about it. However, this is not all the place is known for as you will see in the following story –

The old Broom to Wallal signpost 1938 - Photo SLWA

The old Broom to Wallal signpost 1938 – Photo SLWA

Western Mail 15 February 1940, page 8


THE TOP OF THE HILL
The Wallal Ghost.
I have heard numerous people say there is no such thing as an apparition. If that is the case however, there are exceptions in every walk of life and I beg to differ with the non-believers of such things as ghosts and apparitions. Seeing in the one instance is believing and hearing, even though not seeing in the other instance, is more or less convincing. However, ghosts and then some, hence –

It Walks By Night- Way up by Wallal in the Kimberley district of western Australia there is, or was, an old building that was originally the Wallal post office. The building was erected on a sand hill just above the Government stock well and when the postal business was transferred to Wallal Downs station (that was when the new line was erected directly from La Grange to Marble Bar), the old house was adopted by the many roving ‘bagmen’ for a camp in preference to sleeping on the ground and sharing their bed with the grand variety of slimy reptiles that abound there. The variety begins with the death-adder, who is backed up by the tiger, black and brown snake, of which the latter is the most common variety, but they are equally as venomous as the tiger and black. Last but by no means least is a smallish joker, a silvery green in colour and very thin. It has a very small head and its tail tapers in comparison to a whiplash.

I ask you, who wouldn’t prefer ghosts to snakes?

Now when I first went to Wallal, I was rather puzzled by the absence of aboriginal camps round the old house, even though at different periods there were quite a few occupants in the house. At long last my curiosity got the better of me and I inquired the cause from several older natives. They all give me the one answer, “We fellers frighten to sit down longa that place night time. He got the debil sit down longa that place. Every night you can ‘ear ’em walkin’ about long back verandah close up longa kitchen.”

No, I never laughed at the idea, for I’d already been brought face to face with an apparition in Broome and I came to the conclusion that after that anything was possible. I vouch for the following facts:

It eventually came to pass that, with an old wire whiskered chap, I had the opportunity of proving the natives theory, for I was camped in the old place with one Alec S—, who I may add, was famous for nosing out suitable ‘throat lubricants’. So it happened that the very same afternoon that we made camp in the old house, his needs must came to light with one of his almost perpetual thirsts. This he confided to me, only Snake Juice, taken neat, could momentarily quench his desire. He could smell it the length and breadth of the beach and that’s saying plenty and he consequently took himself off to rout it out. His prediction turned up trumps; he was making in a bee line for the Wallal Downs landing and when he never turned up by sundown, I betook myself to a one man meal and then turned in.

I’ve always made a habit of reading, etc.after tea whenever possible, and on becoming wearied with reading I reckoned I would have some shut-eye and forth with doused the light. Whilst laying down I imagined I could hear footsteps and naturally my first thought was of Alec returning. I could hear the steps quite plainly now, but if Alec, why was he returning from the opposite direction? He went out the front way.

The steps, almost on the verandah, had, come from the back. Now you could distinctly, hear them walking on the floor out the back so I called out, “Is that you Alec?” No answer and the steps momentarily halted and then seemingly advanced to where I was lying. What the ruddy-.” Before I had finished addressing myself, the steps had pawed, me and were retreating out the front of the house and eventually they died away in the distance.

Was I breezy? You’d be surprised. I still hold the world’s lamp-lighting record and I haven’t quite got over the, shock yet, but try as I would I couldn’t solve the mystery. You couldn’t see any silhouette of any receding figure on the sky line and the steps as they passed by me were unhurried. I’m not the only person who has had the same experience. Numerous old-timers have had a shot at solving the mystery and come to no satisfactory conclusion. I burnt the midnight oil with a vengeance that night.

Of my erring mate? Well, when he did arrive, his explanation was that he found it an absolute impossibility to even roll home that night. He managed to stagger home the following afternoon and confided to me the fact that in all his years on the beach, he was unaware until the previous night, that the beach contained such a colourful variety of little snakes and that the ruddy reptiles had been following him all night.

“Reptiles,”says I. “Spare me days. You’re in luck, for if you’d been here, it would have been ghosts.”

“Hic-what?” says Alec. “There ain’t no ruddy goats this side er the Illerina hills, they all live with old Connolly up at La Grange. Are yer sure yer ain’t gettin’ things mixed up with them two ruddy little pigs that Snowy Owen’s got up at the station?.”He paused momentarily, then proffering his bottle said to me “Ere, take a tug a’ this; it’ll steady your nerves.” Steady my nerves! Ye gods, it’s a wonder it didn’t steady me for keeps and how Alec could continually keep pulling at it and refrain from bursting into flames has been an everlasting mystery to me. I’ll bet it was 90 per cent metho and 10 per cent gunpowder-hair raiser brand.

However, In reference to my ghost, if this sees print and the non-believers wish to prove the authenticity of my statements, I’d advise them to take a trip up to the beach and if the old building still exists to camp in it for a week or so, whereby they will not only have convincing proof, but it will be an object lesson for them and advance their knowledge, for mankind is never too old to learn.

I have related my experience, to a few persons, of whom some are for and others against the supernatural. Some bring up the tale of aboriginal superstition. Be that as it may, the Wallal Spook is not a superstition. After my first shock I came to the conclusion that it was not the dead one had to be afraid of, it was the living. If there are any doubters and they wish to prove the authenticity of my statements let ’em go to it, but if any of ’em suffer from nerves I’d advise ’em to stay away, for I dislike publicity in any shape or form and I wouldn’t like the publicity I’d gain if the resident undertaker making a fortune from my statements.   By TOM TIT.

Location of Wallal WA

Location of Wallal WA

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My name is Moya Sharp, I live in Kalgoorlie Western Australia and have worked most of my adult life in the history/museum industry. I have been passionate about history for as long as I can remember and in particular the history of my adopted home the Eastern Goldfields of Western Australia. Through my website I am committed to providing as many records and photographs free to any one who is interested in the family and local history of the region.

Comments

  1. Donna redfearn says

    This sent a tingle through my spine. Wallal Downes was the name of the area next to La Grange mission where I lived once. Did not know of ghosts but of interest is the photo. Thanku. My daughter has only just made a final trip to La grange. Thanku

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